Roos Abels and the problem with adolescent models

14-year-old Dutch model walking for Prada SS15

It was in the late 90s and early 2000s that ateliers became fixated on the idea of using waif-thin girls as their "fit models." Fit models are those who set the precedent for how designers will size their collections and during this time, the standards were beyond extreme. The greater the expectation from ateliers to covet toothpick models to showcase their collections, pressure across the industry to deliver intensified.

As there is a distinct hierarchy that governs the way the industry operates, there are a multitude of issues that arise and from an onlookers perspective, tend to perpetuate an attitude that fashion is a ridiculous spectacle of distorted narcissism. At the top of this hierarchy is haute couture and its their vision that trickles down to ready-to-wear collections, editors, models and at the very bottom, consumers. Of course fashion is a business. An inexplicably powerful business at that. However, what needs to be considered when we think about how certain patterns, ideas and attitudes emerge, is this overarching hierarchy. 

Most people can appreciate how visually stunning haute couture shows are. The craftsmanship of couturiers are the closest demonstration of perfection - even in the finest detail complacency is totally absent. Yet there's more to couture than the clothing. It's the set, the atmosphere and the designer's vision that give the collections resonance. I've read countless reviews that describe these shows as "magical", "intoxicating" and an industry favourite "ethereal". I argue that this is where the problems stir.  

I remember reading former VOGUE Australia editor-in-chief Kirstie Clement's memoir The Vogue Factor and feeling deeply disturbed during the chapter Model Behaviour. She recalled, "There will also be various casting directors and stylists involved, who have a vision of the type of women they envisage wearing these clothes. For some bizarre reason, it seems they prefer her to be young, coltish, six-foot-tall and built like a prepubescent boy...They get so caught up in the hype of how brilliant clothes look on a size 4 they cannot see the inherent danger in the message." 

Before and after of Brazilian model Ana Carolina Reston circa 2004 when super thin models were in highest demand. Ana later died from health issues related to severe anorexia

Luckily since then, VOGUE U.S. editor-in-chief has headed a campaign to ban the use of models under the age of 16 in editorials and models suffering from eating disorders. Yet when we see 14-year-old Dutch newcomer Roos Abel storming the runway for Prada and Giambattista Valli, we have to wonder what sort of pressure this puts on editors when the sample sizes from these collections are given to the press to fit on models whose bodies have matured and filled out. Suddenly, I am reminded of the horrific practices of waist-training in the early 20th century...

There's no doubt that Roos Abels is stunningly beautiful and admittedly, her face holds a maturity beyond the average 14-year-old girl, but is it necessary to cultivate her talent at such a young age? When models are scouted during early adolescence, perhaps it would be better for agencies to cast them aside until they reach 16 (in my opinion, I believe even that is pushing the boundaries). 

It's deluded that fashion is aimed towards grown women, yet the aspirational figure for wearing these garments belong to the body of a child.