Wish List: Alice McCall Cruise 2014 Collection

I've written before about Alice McCall - one of my favourite Australian designers alongside Ellery. 

For some reason, I feel a deep affinity with Alice McCall. Perhaps it's because we are both London-born gals living in Australia. I just love everything about her story - from stylist to making and selling silk tops to the likes of Kate Moss, eventuating in the creation of her own widely successful brand. 

To me, her vision epitomises Australian style with an international audience in mind. Her collections are always light and playful with subtle nuances in the shape, cut and structure that would make even a Parisian girl turn her head in awe.

I have my eye on a few pieces from her Cruise 2014 Collection that I'm sure will become like treasured collectables in my closet.

The gorgeous editor of POPSUGAR Australia, Jasmine Garnsworthy wearing the She Has Funny Cars skirt ($220). The heart-shaped waist is so sweet. (Image via Instagram: @popsugarau)

The look: Twin Peaks Top ($220) with Sleep Awhile Skirt in blush ($220) 

The look: Under the Sky overalls ($280) with A Change From Top in white ($260)

The look: Ends of a Circle Pants ($240), Tinker Top White ($160) and Forever Jacket in black ($390)

Finally my favourite look: the Us and Them Skirt ($280) with the Learning to Fly Top $240. (Image from Joy Hysteric Boutique via @alicemccall)

The rest of the Cruise Collection for 2014 is simply so stunning that it's difficult to choose what pieces to buy. Although the range has been designed to mix and match so you can tailor looks to suit you and survive our sweltering summer. 

Roos Abels and the problem with adolescent models

14-year-old Dutch model walking for Prada SS15

It was in the late 90s and early 2000s that ateliers became fixated on the idea of using waif-thin girls as their "fit models." Fit models are those who set the precedent for how designers will size their collections and during this time, the standards were beyond extreme. The greater the expectation from ateliers to covet toothpick models to showcase their collections, pressure across the industry to deliver intensified.

As there is a distinct hierarchy that governs the way the industry operates, there are a multitude of issues that arise and from an onlookers perspective, tend to perpetuate an attitude that fashion is a ridiculous spectacle of distorted narcissism. At the top of this hierarchy is haute couture and its their vision that trickles down to ready-to-wear collections, editors, models and at the very bottom, consumers. Of course fashion is a business. An inexplicably powerful business at that. However, what needs to be considered when we think about how certain patterns, ideas and attitudes emerge, is this overarching hierarchy. 

Most people can appreciate how visually stunning haute couture shows are. The craftsmanship of couturiers are the closest demonstration of perfection - even in the finest detail complacency is totally absent. Yet there's more to couture than the clothing. It's the set, the atmosphere and the designer's vision that give the collections resonance. I've read countless reviews that describe these shows as "magical", "intoxicating" and an industry favourite "ethereal". I argue that this is where the problems stir.  

I remember reading former VOGUE Australia editor-in-chief Kirstie Clement's memoir The Vogue Factor and feeling deeply disturbed during the chapter Model Behaviour. She recalled, "There will also be various casting directors and stylists involved, who have a vision of the type of women they envisage wearing these clothes. For some bizarre reason, it seems they prefer her to be young, coltish, six-foot-tall and built like a prepubescent boy...They get so caught up in the hype of how brilliant clothes look on a size 4 they cannot see the inherent danger in the message." 

Before and after of Brazilian model Ana Carolina Reston circa 2004 when super thin models were in highest demand. Ana later died from health issues related to severe anorexia

Luckily since then, VOGUE U.S. editor-in-chief has headed a campaign to ban the use of models under the age of 16 in editorials and models suffering from eating disorders. Yet when we see 14-year-old Dutch newcomer Roos Abel storming the runway for Prada and Giambattista Valli, we have to wonder what sort of pressure this puts on editors when the sample sizes from these collections are given to the press to fit on models whose bodies have matured and filled out. Suddenly, I am reminded of the horrific practices of waist-training in the early 20th century...

There's no doubt that Roos Abels is stunningly beautiful and admittedly, her face holds a maturity beyond the average 14-year-old girl, but is it necessary to cultivate her talent at such a young age? When models are scouted during early adolescence, perhaps it would be better for agencies to cast them aside until they reach 16 (in my opinion, I believe even that is pushing the boundaries). 

It's deluded that fashion is aimed towards grown women, yet the aspirational figure for wearing these garments belong to the body of a child.  

Intuition: JETS SS14 Collection at VOGUE Fashion's Night Out

Photo via Charlotte Howell @ The Arctic Wolf

A couple of weeks ago I was invited to attend the JETS SS14 Parade at the annual VOGUE Fashion's Night Out in Sydney. Tragically it fell on the date I was faced with a gargantuan media law exam, so I felt a little bit like Cinderella without a fairy godmother. Luckily I still got to have a peak at some snaps from the show, just in time for stirring inspiration for a balmy Queensland summer. The event showcased 16 designs and was accompanied by a Q&A with VOGUE Australia's editor-in-chief Edwina McCann and JETS chief designer Jessika Allen.

It's the inescapable, searing Australian climate that leads me to fervently believe that we boast some of the most dynamic and eclectic swimwear brands in international fashion. JETS exceeds what you might come to expect when buying a new swimsuit. It's a brand that an encompasses an entire culture of sun-drenched summers spent at the beach. 

Perhaps it was the fact Jessika Allen spent her post-grad in Milan studying tailoring, because her collections always seem to emulate a renowned sense of Italian glamour. 

'Intuition', the SS14 line is no different. It combines my two most cherished style staples: monochrome and well-executed tailoring. Waves of colour and bold prints also made it into the mix as statement pieces. A little twist to this season's collection was of course the addition of men's swimwear inspired by the European boy-leg style trunks. 

There's also a lot to be said for the different silhouettes scattered throughout the collection. There's a commingling of classic glamour, minimalism and retro pin-up with striking patterns and exuberant florals. Apparently it was 80s bodysuits that inspired Jessika Allen to use stretch fabric for designers, a move which means JETS swimwear fits us ladies according the natural shape of our curves - hallelujah! 

You can shop JETS here and take an exclusive look at the VFNO Parade and the Q&A with Edwina McCann and Jessika Allen. 

Bonobos Fall 2014 Mens Suit Collection

With menswear becoming a more prevalent entity in the realm of fashion and luxury design, I couldn't be more excited for SILK AND MONEY to team up with Bonobos, one of America's most revered brands for accessible and luxurious menswear. 

It was Ryan Gosling's character in Crazy, Stupid Love who made me reaffirm my appreciation for classic tailoring, reminiscent of London's Savile Row and quite bluntly reminded us that wearing the wrong suit size is a man's most crucial style faux pas. Fear not though, Bonobos' Fall Suit Collection embodies everything a man should look for when buying a new suit. 

For the traditionalists, there's the Foundation suit - a Bonobos classic made using their signature Italian wool. With a few little tweaks, this Fall's latest line features new fabrics and a more detailed, sleek interior including an ergonomic hidden pocket to make "grabbing that business card as smooth as your first impression". For a modern twist, try the Foundation in navy. As Bonobos is centered in New York - the coolest city in the world, which is about to get a whole lot cooler with Fall around the corner - add an extra layer of warmth and a touch of sophistication with a vest underneath or a topcoat to rug up.

Although there's nothing wrong with sticking to tradition, it's the range of wool suits and tweed blazers that make this collection exquisite. The Nottingham Blazer is the quintessential item for quirky creatives who want to add a touch of sophistication to business drinks or a meeting with the boss. 

Finally, unless you're royalty or a film star, there are only a handful of occasions for a man to up the ante and don a tuxedo so you might as well exceed expectations and defy the norm. A slim fit tuxedo always looks sleek and luxurious and the standout for me in this collection is The Capstone in Grey Honeycomb.  

What I love about Bonobos is that they cater to every kind of man. Whether he's an introvert or an extrovert, a slick professional or a wandering artist - there's something in their collection for every man that is made to fit. 

Here are some exclusive photos from the Bonobos Fall 2014 Mens Suit Collection Lookbook, completely evocative of that crisp Autumnal feel. 

One thing is for sure, this collection's resonance is more than just seasonal.