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| Christophe Lemaire bids a final farewell from the runway at Hermès |
In light of Christophe Lemaire's departure from Hermès, I thought I might review his final collection for the French fashion house and speculate on the future of the brand in the hands of its next appointed director, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski.
The design vision of Lemaire and Hermès is one which I deeply admire. I feel as though the democratisation of fashion since social media has allowed fashion week to become more of a theatrical parade of outfit shots taken on the street than about the collections that generate a market pulse.
From this stems my total adoration for the Hermès vision. The brand has a long-standing reputation preceding Lemaire for being quintessentially Parisian. Alongside their signature silk scarves and iconic (I know that word gets thrown around too often but I feel it's appropriate) handbags such as the Birkin and the Kelly, is a womenswear line that is nothing short of elegant, demure and timeless. Hermès menswear is equally as seamless but I'd like to focus on Lemaire. Considering revenue at Hermès jumped 10 percent over estimates in the past year, it's going to be tough for the brand to let go of Lemaire, yet easier to envision his success through his final collection.
In my mind, Hermès epitomises minimalism and is a name that has become synonymous with luxury. In a time where fashion coverage and media is saturated with commentary on cult brands in the market like Alexander Wang, Givenchy and the aforementioned Jeremy Scott, Hermès exists for those who are truly focused on craftsmanship. Lemaire's final collection for the house encapsulated this notion entirely.
Featuring crisp lines, relaxed fabrics and refined colour, it's everything you would expect from an Hermès collection. It's subdued luxury. I like to think it's Lemaire's homage to the brand he has worked tirelessly for since 2010. Under his creative direction, he spoke of his vision for the brand:
"I want… fashion that accompanies the personality,” says Lemaire. “Allowing freedom of movement and gesture, [the] clothes [should] allow a woman to be herself.”
I believe that in this sense, Lemaire has exceeded himself and that if his work at Hermès is anything to go by, the future of his own namesake brand will be held in high esteem by fashion critics. His successor, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, has quietly built a solid repertoire at houses such as The Row and Céline, which share a similar design aesthetic to Hermès - refined, minimalist, intelligent. With the sort of knowledge and experience gained throughout her career, I have an inkling that Vanhee-Cybulski will make a smooth transition into her role as creative director at Hermès, continuing the legacy of the fashion house that defines Parisian style.
You can view the full collection here via Style.com
